Though no mushroom leather was used in the collection she said she and her team are running trials with it and with other substitute leathers, and that 85% of the collection’s materials were upcycled. Burton brings that awareness and a woman-centered approach to what she’s doing here. Many years on, that struggle is more real than ever. McQueen would’ve likely dug the mycelium he was always intrigued by the elements, always finding his way back to a nature vs. Burton said these were inspired by yet another archival McQueen collection, Number 13, the show in which the model Shalom Harlow and her strapless white dress were painted by a pair of robots normally used in the automotive industry in a sort of erotic dance. Most notable were the suits that looked like they’d been spray-painted with the shadow of a rushing body. “I wanted it to have a pace to it and an energy to it… and there to be color,” Burton said. Other sharply cut pantsuits picked up the psychedelic colors of those mushrooms-acid green and yellow, electric blue, bright red. A smoking with a crystal-embellished back panel and a spangled bandeau in place of a shirt would be a glamorously restrained red carpet look for what’s likely to be a sober Oscars ceremony at the end of the month. She was in New York City, after all, so she didn’t neglect to show off the label’s sartorialism. Backstage Burton was talking about mycelium, the underground fungal network that’s sometimes called nature’s “wood wide web,” connecting trees with one another and transferring nutrients and minerals plant-to-plant.īurton’s McQueen is a thoughtful balance of hand craft and haute tailleur. Piles of mulch made from fallen trees gave off a peaty tang in the Brooklyn warehouse venue (it’ll be reused in plantings, she said), and birds and insects chirped on the speakers before the soundtrack settled into the groove of “A Forest” by The Cure. This show was rooted in the elements, as well, though it wasn’t water that was her focus, but earth. “It feels part of our creative community. “America and New York have always been so much a part of McQueen,” she said backstage. Sarah Burton was with him on both trips, and she was back in New York tonight to present her fall 2022 collection for the label. The 1999 show will go down as among the wettest in fashion history, with torrential rain flooding the streets and a runway submerged in several inches of water. Ahead of this evening’s show, we look back at ten of McQueen’s most spectacular, political and provocative presentations.Lee Alexander McQueen brought his show to New York twice, first in 1996 with Dante and again in 1999 for Eye. Since taking the helm in the wake of her friend and mentor’s passing, Burton has kept his legacy alive by continuing to present collections imbued with romanticism and exquisite artistry. This season, for the first time since 2002, Sarah Burton is bringing the house back to its British roots, showing AW16 today at London Fashion Week. Politically and aesthetically, McQueen’s work embodies the spirit of London – wherever he showed during his nearly 20-year long career, the punk sensibility of the capital went with him. The designer set himself apart with his collision of influences that ranged from low-art to the avant-garde, as well as the characteristic juxtaposition of light and dark that permeated his work and put him on the map. Lee Alexander McQueen is known as much for his shows as he is for clothes, and it’s impossible to look back in fashion and not automatically think of his legacy.
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